Today I had garage shop duty making up my popular Spock-pointed ears. Then a lot of bore time on the PCs sizing, making templates and printing them off to cut the additional hull parts I need. I want to get those indentations sorted out before I sheet the hull. And the forward bevels that the base of the deflector will fit to. It always takes longer than one would think.
Actual building progress again tomorrow. Sometimes you have to be stuck at these darn things before you can do some building and that was today!
Today I built the other side of the secondary hull and cut the neck out which will later have some simple structure added to it, sheeted, with and thick leading and trailing edge add to it made out of balsa and sanded to shape.
I couldn’t resist propping up the saucer against this structure for a look. This is a bigger model than I have realized up to this point. My goodness. I’m going to go broke making the molds on this model. I figure about 1000 bucks just for the RTV silicone to mold all the parts! Time to starting hunting for deals.
Here’s a picture of a 58 year old big kid and his dream toy! Talk about geek!
OK. Been making profiles and formers all day and was able to get some of them mounted to the profile. What I did is print out the profile with the former locations and 3m 77 glue the profile plan to two pieces of basswood. These were also lightly tacked together so they could be separated after cutting. I then cut the profile and separated the two pieces so I have an exact RT and LT profile.
Next was to cut the formers taking into account the 1/8 profiles thickness. Otherwise you’ll be out of round.
The way I made the formers was to simply use a compass. Measure off the profile the width of each former from its location on the profile and mark with the compass. And yes I accounted for the 3/32 balsa sheeting I’ll be using tomorrow to sheet the right and left hull sections.
Eventually the RT and LT hull sections will be pegged together so I can match sand and check they are true to each other.
I can hear your thoughts now. Why a right and left side? Well it’s easier for one to get the formers straight and sheet. Additionally it will be easier to mold and give and exact parting line to sand to before connecting together since you’ll need to get inside to mount the lighting. Every part of this model and the molds will be right and left sides for this reason. Yes it means seaming and filling and sanding but there’s no other way to access the insides and add the lighting. Not easily anyway.